Denmark March 14th and 15th

So, it has been a while since I have posted and I apologize. I think we were trying to cram in as much as we could into the day that sitting down at night just didn’t take the priority. When I last left off we were on to our second day in Copenhagen. We started out a brief glimpse into Christiana. This is the squatters colony in the city. Apparently in the 70’s the navy moved out of a base and so squatters moved in. I guess it is communal living in that there aren’t police in the area and life is pretty much regulated by those that live there. That being said, there are activities that would normally be illegal taking place in the open. We really didn’t venture in very far, but just to get the idea of the area and look at some of the beautiful graffiti art work. I am not being sarcastic when I say that it really is beautiful. Take a look at the photos. We couldn’t take many though because cameras aren’t allowed inside. In talking with locals, they hope that Christiana remains, but they are worried with the conservative movement in their government right now. They feel it is a safe place when left to itself and by raiding the area and dispersing the “activities” to other areas of the city they are encouraging criminal activity rather than self-governed choices. Then we went to the changing of the guard at the palace of the King and Queen and to the attached museum showcasing artifacts from multiple reigns but was more focused on the late 19th and 20th century royalty. Then we went to the Karen Blixen museum. She is a famous literary figure from Denmark whose stories are read worldwide. We also commonly know her best for the basis of the female main character in Out of Africa. The home, history and belongings were interesting and the gardens/bird sanctuary behind the home were lovely, but a bit muddy. Then we went to dinner with some locals whose backgrounds were in music, education, politics, and health care. It was probably the time the most cultural exchange took place. There were interesting conversations at each corner of the table exploring American life and Danish life. I think the free schooling for advanced degrees allow a lower stress lifestyle during studies and thereby encouraging a very well educated general populous. Some interesting things learned today: Avg tax bracket is 47% though it can vary from 40$ to 60%, they have a draft for everyone in Denmark and depending on what number you draw you may have to serve at least 8 months in the military; Healthcare is free, but there are waits and Denmark is in need of more medical professionals; It is uncommon for people to study one subject in their undergraduate and then a different subject for a master’s degree; Danish people in general would align with a democratic party rather than a republican party.

On our final day we again broke into small groups. In my group we went to the stadium where FC Copenhagen plays to buy some souvenirs. Then we remembered a poster we had seen in Aarhus advertising a protest of the Iraq war in front of the US Embassy. So, we made our way there and saw a small protest. We were unable to understand much of what was being said, but there were about 150 people there or so. Then we were on our way to eat lunch when we realized we had gone to the protest early because there was a march of about 1000 people on the way towards us. It was interesting to see a war that we often associate only with the US and Iraq impacting public opinion and lives in Denmark. Remember, Denmark enraged Islamic extremists when it’s papers published a comic depicting the prophet with a bomb for a turban. So, they are very aware of the importance of western cultures interacting and living with all Islamic cultures. My group and I continued our journey through the pedestrian shopping areas and climbed a tower from the 14th century..maybe 15h. It was old. Then as a group many of us went to a debut concert of a solo violinist that was free and fantastic. We were longing for home a bit and ate $30 hamburgers for dinner. I am not sure I will ever pay $30 for a hamburger again.

The next day we were on our way home on a very long 8 hour flight with some way out of control children sitting next to us. My favorite memory form the day was Nick’s excitement at going to the Sheetz across the street from campus for a cheap hotdog and giant soda. God Bless America! LOL!

Full day in Copenhagen

Well, our first full day in Copenhagen! We ventured out this morning on a mission to explore the coast and a few museums. We took a subway and a train to Elsinore where there is Kronborg castle. They started building it in the 15th century and construction was finished in 1500’s. It has been restored many times and it probably is most famous in our country because it is the place Shakespere based Hamlet. Though the story is fictional because the true prince of Denmark on which the character of Hamlet was based (Prince Amled) never lived at Kronborg. It was the first castle most of us had seen in our lives and the sheer size was absolutely incredible. Then we went to the Louisiana Museum of modern art. It currently has an installation of Cezanne and Giacometti. It was truly a once in a lifetime opportunity to see some of the paintings. There were many other works on display too by Andy Warhol, Pablo Picasso, others. We all left there on sensory overload but headed back to town just in time for a downpour. Have I mentioned yet that it rains a lot? (Remember now,,,bring your pin number and bring your umbrella.) We stopped in City Center or Nyhaven area to look around and saw the Amber museum. We went inside and saw a lot of fine specimens that could start any Jurassic Park like existence. It rained some more, we huddled under an awning trying to figure out dinner plans. When asked, “Is everyone alright with that?” Travis responded,,,”UM…Yeah…Can you do something about the rain? That would be helpful.” We were soaked so we went to dinner and then came back to the hotel to rest. We have walked so much here we have come up with a new t.v. series…Biggest Loser European Vacation. Between walking to the trains/metros, sights, inside the sights, and back we would make Dr. Oz proud. Two quotes for the day…”No, not in this room.” “Who was that?” “She was looking for some Yen Vehgner.” (pause…head tilt…strange look) “OH! Oh no. Did that mean Jan?” One more, “What are you sinking about?” Until tomorrow…

Odense to Copenhagen

Hmmm…March 12th. Today we had a bit of a break in the morning to sight see in small groups. Most of it involved window shopping and not actual shopping because everything is so darn expensive. I mean, $8 for a latte is average. McDonalds sandwiches are more than $5 for the sandwich. (No, we haven’t eaten at a McDonalds, but the prices are posted and just to give you a comparison.) Then, we went to the Carl Nielsen museum in Odense at the symphony hall. I think most of us were struck with his wife Anne Marie’s talent for sculpting. Some of the pieces were truly brilliant. Then we took the train to Copenhagen. Just on entering the city I realized the “cities” we had been in were more towns than cities. This reminds me more of NY or San Francisco. We took the subway/metro to dinner and then walked home. I know this entry is short and sweet, but I do have the quote of the day for you…”I am so cold,,,my intestines are shaking!” Not many pictures today, so I will post some more tomorrow.

March 11th Odense

Today was our first full day in Odense. We met in the morning and walked (of course) to the symphony hall. However the rehearsal was scheduled for the afternoon today. So, we went straight away to the Hans Christen Andersen museum. It was really a lovely museum established around the house he grew up in with his biography spread across a large display in both English and Danish. There were many school children there who found Christer fascinating as they bogged down the bathroom all afternoon trying to eat their lunches they were not allowed to eat until after they left the museum. I guess kids are the same everywhere. After a couple of hours and a few souvenirs later we went to the café to mingle with the locals. Then we split up into groups with a few of us sight seeing in the old part of town that is now mostly shops and a few of us going to a fine art museum. I went to the museum and loved it all. It was a combination of contemporary and photographic art. There was one bizarre exhibit that incorporated black and white with the only color a picture of a woman defecating in the woods. Not my cup of tea, but the rest was fantastic. There was a display of award winning photojournalism of scenes in Denmark, Thailand, sporting events, Ghana and many moments in time that were captured brilliantly. There was also an amazing children’s exhibit with so many textures and illusions that were inspiring and exciting for all of the children there. It was really moving to see an emphasis on introducing art to children at an early age. Then we went to the symphony rehearsal at a local church where they are performing a religious inspired repertoire. It was so nice to hear live music. There is no comparison to listening through headphones to a digital recording and experiencing music through sound, sight, energy, vibration…it is just a more fulfilling experience. Then we took a train and went to a traditional Danish restaurant and ate the largest omelet in the entire world. Omelets are not a breakfast meal but a dinner meal here. You can take a look at the pictures and see the mound of food that was served. Also, most people had a round of pickled herring that was surprisingly sweet and delicious. We went with a couple of wonderful Danish women from the orchestra who shared insight no life here in Denmark from healthcare and schools to politics both here and in the USA. It reinforces the importance of our political desicions in the world and how many people are watching the USA this presidential election. Then we hopped the train back to the hotel and planned our day tomorrow. Everyday each person is opening up and showing their personality in a way that wasn’t expected from our short pre-trip meetings. It is a diverse and kind group of people exploring Denmark together.

March 10th Aarhus to Odense

Last day in Aarhus. We went to a museum with the worlds oldest/best preserved cadaver. Apparently it was a practice to throw people into peat bogs after you killed them. So there have been a few bodies discovered at each level of the peat. We rode the bus through the beautiful country side and arrived to find out it was closed. So we walked/slugged through the grounds which were amazing but a bit boggy. There were ancient burial grounds from 1000-2000 BC guarded by some very docile horned sheep. It was reminiscent of Stonehenge or something. There were rock circles and underground crypts. There was a Thai house donated directly to the museum from Thailand and a rebuilt Viking compound with a house, storage, archery areas and worship house. So on our way out Jan decided to ask if they would be kind enough to let us into the museum, and would you believe they did! It was an interesting look at some of the archeological finds within and around Denmark. We then took the bus to one of the major Universities here in Aarhus. It has about 35,000 students. Now, we are on our way to Odense for a few days in Jan’s old stomping ground. I am excited to see the orchestra he used to conduct.

The train ride was smooth and really relaxing. The countryside is green and little dwellings were everywhere you looked. Dwelling seems a better word for the homes here with the rounded tile roofs and their quaint architechture. Had dinner at a great place and explored the old town a bit here in Odense. Time for bed now. I’ll try to write more tomorrow.

March 9th (Day 2 in Denmark)

Ok…lots to say today. First off, last night we went to have dinner at a German style pub and they began to sing drinking songs in the bar. Would you believe they played Almost Heaven by John Denver? …”Country roads….take me home…to the place…where I belong…West Virginia…mountain mamma…take me home…country roads.” It was weird to think that I was sitting down for my first real meal since I had left my house in West Virginia and there we were 4 thousand miles away in a pub in Denmark and they are joyfully singing about West Virginia. Not to mention they played Achy Breaky Heart too. So weird in a Danish accent! Anyhow, we all pretty much came home and passed out after a very long day. (By the way…if you ever come to Denmark, get a pin number for your credit card. They really like pin numbers for every transaction, otherwise take cash.)

So, today we all slept well and brought our baggies to breakfast with us with a few comments from the Swedes. We started at the cathedral across the street this morning. “A” took communion and we all admired the architecture of the 13th-16th century. So much detail and grandeur…it was amazing. We walked around the town and bought some bus cards and made our way to Den Gamle By or “Old Town”. There were buildings from the 17th, 18th, and 19th century reconstructed to the time period. Each had exhibits of different merchants or townspeople in the area. I think we all enjoyed looking into the past and seeing what life was like then and how much it has changed. However, I wouldn’t want to be the scullery made who slept in the drawer/bed in the kitchen. Then we walked to the Fine Art museum. Before I go into our adventure there, I have to make a comment about the walking. No wonder this country has one of the lowest BMI’s (Body Mass Indexes), because everybody walks or bikes everywhere. (Check out the pictures of the bikes and baby buggies.) We passed a tour of Americans at Den Gamle By and it was obvious they were Americans because of their weight. I mean, going into health care I know that obesity is an issue, but only one day here and I can tell the difference in health. Danish skin texture, vivacity, and just overall appearance is so much more healthy. Just a revelation a few of us shared today as we earned our “Danish” legs. So, then we were off to the Fine Art museum. I really enjoyed the top floor which was the modern era, but really from the 17th-early 20th century. The other floors were predominantly contemporary art. There were some interesting expressions of “art” to say the least. If you ask anyone about the model plane attached to the string…I am sure they will tell you. But be prepared for a belly laugh and some creative explanations. Let’s just say the Danes are much more liberal than Americans in what they call art…or at least it seems so. We all decided to walk to dinner and enjoyed a wonderful meal and evening together. On our way home we ran into our first homeless person. This entire town is extraordinarily clean and I really get the feeling homelessness is rare. This man decided to take a nap in front of us on the rainy street. He didn’t understand us and we concluded he was drunk, but couldn’t be sure if he needed help or not. So we solicited some locals to interpret and Nick gave the guy a sandwich. Last we saw those folks were still trying to help him. Now, we are enjoying an evening in the common room of our hotel playing cards, writing home and just enjoying each other...oh yeah, and discussing "time". Enjoy our new pictures and we hope you see more tomorrow.

It was a crazy time leading up to departure. Trying to finalize things at home and leaving a very rainy Winchester was smooth, but exhausting. We arrived at the airport hours in advance and went to grab some lunch/dinner at a Mexican restaurant. The boys (Jan [pronounced yahn], Nick, Chaiyos [we just call him A], and Travis) got to a table first and sent us girls to the back corner. We had our revenge though because we were served, ate, paid and were leaving just as they were getting their food. We all had windows or aisle seats and fairly comfy. That is until they served breakfast. Breakfast at 6am Denmark time…or midnight at home. We either ate dinner at 1:30am and breakfast at 6am or dinner at 7:30pm and breakfast at 12am—I’m not sure which. Well,,,I didn’t eat breakfast. I just expressed my annoyance and flopped my head to other side and went back to sleep. As we prepared for landing I could see some things out the window thanks to A. There were ships in the channels and there were massive windmills juxtaposed by industrial stacks spewing something in the air. Denmark is well known for their environmental policies, so I am sure it was closer to steam than straight sulfur, but it was just an interesting image of the balance in today’s day and age. We were shuffled through security again and just on the other side of security were these little glass booths with people crowded into them. Then, I read the sign, SMOKING BOOTH. I mean it was a scene out of the 60’s when people tried to set records for the number of people in the booth. You know the images that I am talking about. I had to take a photo. Then we passed through the shopping section of the airport (which included a Ferrari that A had to take time to admire). The food was even more overpriced than US airports. But...I have to say there was a lot of fish. Fish Bars, Fish restaurants, fish bistros…you get the picture. Then we began walking. The airport is huge and I am pretty sure our connecting flight to Aarhus could not be any further away from where we landed. I would say it was a longer walk than Chicago from United to American. I used the toilets and surprised by how small they were and how uncomfortable. It was like sitting on toilet without the seat down…we will have to remember to be careful.

Now we are at our hotel. After a brief mix-up in the financing department (our card was declined and bank said we were out of money…yikes! We knew that wasn't the case…Jan was great, got a hold of the university who got on the horn and are all good now.) We are checked in and comfy…kind of. Our rooms are a lot like the inside cabins on a cruise ship. It took us a good 15 minutes to figure out the lights. They have a slot you need to put your key in to turn on the power in the room. The beds are about 2/3 the side of a twin bed and a bit shorter. The shower…lets just say that if you drop the soap you have to open up the curtain, move around the toilet and open the bathroom door to bend over and pick it up. You could describe it as small, but I would describe it as minuscule. I have to say that so far everything has been pretty smooth. In fact, we were walking around the town and heard “Jan” shouted from the distance. Would you believe it was a former Shenandoah University trombone student that studied under Jan who is here in Denmark now. No, this was not a planned meeting. In fact Jan hadn’t contacted him. It is a small world. So we all walked around in a sleep deprived ravenous haze looking for a restaurant that wouldn’t break the bank. We finally found the Turkish style buffet that was really good for 59 Kroner (or about $12). By Danish standards this is very cheap, but unless you have water with your meal…watch out. 22 Kroner for a 4 oz cup of coffee. 37 Kroner for a 12 oz beer. We managed to find a 7-11 for coffee after lunch/dinner/breakfast (considering it was about 9am eastern). However, the massive contraption they had for coffee was not only unfamiliar, but also all of the buttons were in Danish. The kind clerk taught me how to use the machine and I have a feeling I will be back there a time or two before we leave. Of all places---a 7-11. But with dollar as low as it is, you have to watch it. And I feel better about paying 19 Kroner [K] for 16 oz of coffee than 22 K for 4 oz. Not much more for now. I will write more tomorrow when we all have a bit of sleep and a chance to explore the town and culture some more.